In 1979, the first time I went to Bali, Tenganan was on my list of places to visit. Why? It is an “Aga Bali” village – the people here consider themselves to be decended from the original Balinese, they may not marry outside the village if they wish to remain there (making for interesting anthropological studies) and they are know for a special double ikat particular to that village. They are also famous for their basketry and lontar leaf books.
The big change in the village was that now every house now has a shop where they sell fabric from all over and other artifacts. Additionally there are boys and men selling beautifully crafted lontar leaf books and scrolls at tables along the road and painted eggs. Colorful fighting cocks have been dyed in pastel shades and sit sullenly under baskets in the shade. There are beautiful basket shops at the entrance of the village and a voluntary admission fee is charged. But- turn a corner and nothing has changed. The main street slopes upward and helpfully placed stones enable visitors to climb the hill. If you make it to the very top, there is a temple just a little farther along the path, so bring your sarong and sash if you think you may want to go inside. It is simple and quite old.
Tenganan is well worth a visit.
Until I found the Lotus Bungalows (+62)363 41104 on the Candidasa Main Road in Amipura, I could never find a place nearby in whicb to eat. Look out for the sign for Pizza shortly before the turnoff to Tenganan. The Lotus Bungalows which houses the restaurant is beautifully located right on the beach and from the restaurant you can gaze over the infinity pool to the sea beyond. The food was good and it was a comfortable and pleasant stop.